Where: Germania Club, Hillsborough Road, Warners Bay

Prices: Entrees, $9 to $12.50; mains $18.50 to $28.50; desserts $8

Chef: Emina Maslovsky

Wines: Limited selection of wines available only from the bar

Hours: Wednesday to Friday, lunch noon to 2pm, dinner 5.30pm to 9pm; Saturday, lunch noon to 2pm, dinner 5.30pm to 9.30pm; Sunday, lunch noon to 2.30pm

Bookings: 4954 3070

Bottom line: Two can dine very well on a main and dessert for about $60

It was founded more than 50 years ago "to provide a meeting place for the German-speaking specialists and industrial workers, their associated suppliers and sub-contractors who had come to Newcastle to be a part of a fledgling steel industry. Its aims were to preserve the German language, its customs and traditions and encourage solidarity amongst members while promoting and maintaining a harmonious relationship with fellow Australians".

The Germania Club's familiar site in Warners Bay is an ongoing testimony to the success of its original aims.

The sharing of food culture has always been successful in breaking down barriers in Australia. Witness the popularity of Italian, Greek, Vietnamese, Chinese, Thai, Lebanese and other cuisines. So why is sausage and sauerkraut not as familiar with Anglo Australians as Thai green curry and rice or pizza? Our climate may have something to do with it. Or it could be that German food demands some hearty exercise as a digestive. A walk in the Black Forest anyone?

But there's no need to go so far. On the first and third Fridays in the month you can eat your fill in Restaurant Germania then ease your conscience on the dance floor in the club.

So don't expect light ingredients or small portions here. Come with a large appetite for the hearty Bavarian fare. Follow the waiter's advice and skip the entre{aac}e if you have a yearning for any of the traditional dishes.

If so, you can't go past the Germanic mixed meat platter, $28.50. Three sausage varieties, bockwurst, weisswurst and meatloaf, plus half a pork knuckle fill the plate. The acidity of the sauerkraut and the sweet and sour of the red cabbage is a classic match. A parsley-speckled bread dumpling provides the carbohydrate. Then, you could skip the sausages and stay with whole braised and roasted braised pork knuckle with the above garnishes, $23.50. Alternatively, leave off the knuckle and just have the sausages, $19.50.

Jager schnitzel, $19.50, is two slices of crumbed yearling rather than veal. On the other hand there are plenty of mushrooms in the sauce. The saute{aac} potatoes are not as crisp as I'd like but there's an acceptable cucumber and mayonnaise salad on the side.

If you have the room you might choose an entre{aac}e of grilled asparagus and black forest ham, with shaved parmesan and poached egg, $12.50, or crumbed mushrooms with tartare sauce, $11.50. There are lighter mains too; fish of the day, $21.50, is served with potato mash, seasonal vegetables, baby spinach and tomato saffron sauce and the mushroom risotto, $17.50, would keep a vegetarian happy.

A dessert is almost a course too far but in the interests of research, you understand, I make the sacrifice. Creme brulee, $8, doesn't disappoint. The caramel crust crackles under the spoon, the custard underneath smooth and creamy and flecked with vanilla. Almond biscotti provides crunch.

A large family group is celebrating an 80th birthday party at the next table. That's what this place is all about maintaining traditions for descendants of the original members and sharing them with other Australians.