Spicers Guesthouse Hunter Valley officially opened last November. It was previously Peppers Guest House and had been owned and operated by Peppers for about 30 years. 

Boutique hotel chain Spicers Retreats purchased the Ekerts Road, Pokolbin, property in January 2016. Chef Brett Hobson, formerly of Palazzo Versace, took charge of the kitchen and changed the menu from French to modern Italian. Then the hotel closed and interior designers, stylists, painters, designers and tradies took over. 

Having visited the "old" hotel shortly before it closed for renovations, this writer was keen to see the end result. It didn't disappoint. 

The Guesthouse has all the style and substance people have come to expect from Spicers - the understated elegance and the distinct spaces where guests can unwind.

The building housing the restaurant was once the meeting place of local winemakers. Its sandstone bar room and fireplace was witness to many a discussion about vintages, climate and crops. The space has been given a contemporary makeover by Spicers but its historical significance has, thankfully, not been lost.

An impressive triangular wine wall feature Hunter valley winegrowers' top drops and the private dining room is crowned by a unique branch light feature.

The infinity pool is sympathetic to the environment; there is a fire pit near the updated terrace that has sweeping views of the countryside; and the updated guest rooms have muted tones to, again, complement the landscape. There are 49 rooms, including a four-bedroom standalone cottage.

We stayed in the Hunter Suite with a distinct lounge and dining area and a bedroom separated by a large bathroom. There is a short walkway between the living spaces and you can see through the glass into the bathroom as you pass by - which is not a problem unless you aren't overly familiar with your roommate. The glass water containers on the bedside tables were a nice touch. The suite also had two flat-screen televisions, free Wi-Fi, a Bose sound system, a mini bar and a safe.

Pokolbin is an easy drive from Newcastle these days but it feels a world away. Situated on a ridge with views of rolling hills and pastures on one side and mountains on the other, Spicers Guesthouse is private and tranquil. Stand on the hill near the terrace at sunset with a glass of wine as a gentle breeze travels up the valley and kangaroos emerge from the bushland and you'll understand.

In addition to the native kangaroos are their weathered-steel cousins, designed by Victorian artist Matt Hill. One is peering through the restaurant's window. 

At Eremo Restaurant executive chef Cameron Matthews has designed a menu with a modern approach to traditional Italian dishes using Hunter Valley produce where possible. The former head chef at Long Apron Restaurant spent the first 10 years of his career learning the ropes at Syd's Place in Bright, Victoria, later renamed Simone's Restaurant. He worked alongside Patrizia Simone and her mother, Maria, who he affectionately refers to as "Nonna".

"She is my barometer when it comes to food," Matthews says. "At Eremo I want to have another crack at giving people the kind of thrill I experienced when eating Nonna's food." If the buratta with garlic-braised broccoli; the zucchini flower with asparagus and gorgonzola; and the veal saltimbocca with prosciutto, sage, peas and kipfler potatoes are anything to go by, he's well on his way to achieving that goal.

Read more: ​Top chef brings Italian passion to Pokolbin

The wine choices were impressive and breakfast is a choice of continental or al fresco. The friendly service deserves a mention, as do the magnificent trees on the property. Bicycles can be hired and picnic baskets arranged. 

The writer was a guest of Spicers Retreats.