It's a funny how the memory works. I've driven past the corner of Albert and Branch streets near the Carrington bridge roundabout possibly a thousand times, but it wasn't until something changed that I paid any attention to the streetscape.
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The change in question was the arrival of Flotilla, the latest venture from The Edwards' Chris Joannou and Zach Scholtz, and a nod to the nearby harbour. It gradually took shape over about 18 months and it had me curious as to what it was, and why I couldn't remember what was there before.
Once the doors opened in mid-April, I was keen to discover what had been hiding inside. It seems a lot of people were curious, and it took me a while to get a Friday night reservation. Even when I did, I had to agree to vacate my table after one hour and 45 minutes. Long enough for a leisurely meal? Not at all, but I was intrigued so I agreed to the conditions.
Inhabiting a cavernous angular space, Flotilla describes itself as 'refined, yet casual dining'. It's an apt definition. The staff, decor and food is polished, the atmosphere is easy-going. Flotilla does feel related to The Edwards; it's got that industrial chic vibe, and I'm pretty sure the stools are from the former Parry Street venue.
We've booked a seat at the bench overlooking the kitchen. If it's just the two of you, it's the best seat in the house. Here we smell the coals from the oven, the crackling of the pans. It's theatre and it's thrilling. Watching the food preparation is fascinating, however confronting it may be for the chefs who are madly, but coolly, cooking, searing, chopping and plating. Apart from the occasional "Oui chef!", the team is smooth, in control and performing brilliantly.
The menu at Flotilla is comfortably modern and compact: fish, beef, chicken, vegetarian. We are brought piping hot Baked Uprising bread with Pepe Saya butter. It works a treat with my Glandore chardonnay. So does my entree of butter-poached prawns with creamed sweet corn. Adding cold baby cucumber and corn kernels is a fresh touch, but the inclusion of sunflower sprouts with the seed still attached is smooth.
The kingfish crudo presents as a mound of the cubed firm fish, balanced with pieces of sweet toadskin melon, and flecks of the crispiest chicken skin for crunch. Balls of salty avruga keep the dish nautical.
While the bar can whip up some clever cocktails, the wine list presents some interesting drops worth exploring. A McLaren Vale Malbec proves a perfect choice for the food to come.
A signature dish - Northern NSW wagyu sirloin - is served medium rare and tender and sits atop a potato galette with carrots and pureed Jerusalem artichoke. Tonight there is the option for in-season black truffles to be shaved over the top by the chef at your table - yes please! With the earthy beef and root vegetables and the heady truffle, it's like a roast dinner on steroids and just divine.
A plate of pork neck with pureed and grated pumpkin, plus candied pepitas and smoked maple is a blend of sweet and salty. I've never ordered pork before and now I'm wondering what's taken me so long. It's really delicious.
Presentation is impeccable and pretty. Flavours and textures tick all the boxes. Executive chef Paul Niddrie happily answered questions about ingredients and technique.
If I really want to be picky, I'd love a hook under the bench for my handbag - it's a long way down to the ground and a bit awkward to reach, but that's a gripe I have for a lot of venues. We are slightly rushed to place our order because of the second seating, and in the end we run out of time for dessert. Luckily, we are able to decamp to the bar for a cheese plate and sherry and a chat with bar manager Simon Nicholas.
We toddle out into the chilly night air, agreeing that it has been a long time since we had such a great dinner. It's a meal I'll remember for some time, and one that will see me returning again.
The essentials
- What: Flotilla. 9 Albert Street, Wickham.
- Contact: theflotilla.com.au; 4965 3885
- Hours: Dinner and drinks Wed-Sun
- Executive chef: Paul Niddrie; Head chef: Jess Brooks
- Owners: Chris Joannou and Zach Scholtz
- Accessibility: Yes.
- Take note: Two seatings per night so you'll have to stick to the timings.
- Bottom line: Entrees $18-22; mains $30-47; dessert $15
- Must try: Wagyu sirloin.