I wonder if there is food more loved than pizza and pasta? Perhaps. But pizza and pasta is cherished the world over and for good reason: it's simple and delicious.

The deliciousness lies in the ingredients and technique - stick to fresh, seasonal produce and keep ingredients to a minimum.

A big bowl of pasta or a hot slice (or four) of pizza is a moment of joy, and nothing is more nourishing and warming on a cold, rainy winter night.

Bella Italia has opened in Hunter Street west, right near the Honeysuckle Light Rail stop. It occupies a large rectangular space with the bar and kitchen running down the side. Grab a glimpse of their shiny wood-fired pizza oven as you are shown to your table.

The exposed brick walls hint at ancient frescos and, once the tables begin to fill with hungry eaters, the ambience increases. We are greeted by front of house manager and co-owner Andrea Dazzi. Water, menus, quick sticks. Service is friendly and efficient.

The busy front bar is already heating up, with cocktails, a range of local and Italian wines and beers available. Plus coffee for later.

The menu has a range of antipasti, pasta dishes and more substantial mains, plus a focus on pizza, with a choice of more than 25 toppings.

There is a wide range of vegan dishes, which can be a challenge for a diet that precludes dairy and eggs, but crumbed zucchini with a basil and soy aioli or a mushroom risotto sound rather delicious.

Entrees and starters are all about sharing. Yes, you could probably devour one by yourself, but the nature of dining Italian is to pick, talk, drink, talk, nibble, talk and so on.

Try bruschetta with glistening tomatoes, the lightest of fried calamari, bread and salami and olives. Pick them up with your fingers and keep chatting. I can't go past Le Polpette - meatballs - with claims that Mamma's recipe is the best in Newcastle. I couldn't say for certain, but the six, firm, golf-ball sized spheres are pretty good. Not too herby, not too salty, not too dry and very tasty. They are sprinkled with parsley and parmesan and sitting in a rich pool of tomato sauce. I use the most dense house-baked bread I've ever tasted to mop up all the juices. It's a good size for two people.

Moving on to mains, it's hard for me to ignore freshly-made pasta or gnocchi. The potato dumplings are firm and flavoursome, without any hint of flouriness. A ragu bolognese is meaty and saucy, in the best way. The serving is the perfect size too. Gnocchi also comes with a creamy mushroom, pancetta, pecorino and truffle sauce, but that would stop me dead in my tracks. A pork belly stuffed with apple, onion, bacon and herbs served with roasted potatoes could also achieve this, but wouldn't it be fun?

If pizza is your go-to, then you should find something on the long list of toppings to tempt. From the simple, but effective Marinara (just tomato, garlic and oregano), to the punchy Calabrese (tomato, mozzarella, salami, spicy nduja, olives, red onion), and the unexpected Orange (mozzarella, pumpkin cream, mushrooms, parmesan).

The toppings aren't too heavily piled on that the pizza becomes soggy. The base is thin, with a puffy, air-pocket crust that still has a chewy, doughy personality. They aren't oily either.

Dessert is designed to finish you off completely. King tiramisu holds court, as does gnocchetti alla Nutella - fried doughnuts pumped full of Nutella.

Italy has strict food certifications and controls in an effort to keep ingredients and dishes authentic. While the food on offer here is a little Australianised in parts, the focus remains on the cuisine we have grown to love. The kitchen is creating yummy meals and Newcastle is a long way from the cobble-stoned streets of Italy.

At Bella Italia, beautiful Italy has found a home.