IT HAS a mere 12.2 ha of vines, at best an annual production of 4500 dozen and new-release wines sell out in nine months - but the Hunter's Lake's Folly brand is surely one of the most prized in Australia.
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That's long been the case and last week it was reinforced loud and clear in a report from Australia's largest wine storage provider showing that the Lakes Folly cabernets were its fourth most collected wine and the most collected cabernet blend.
The report is from Wine Ark, which holds two million bottles for collectors from 30 countries in climate-controlled storages in 15 centres around Australia.
Wine Ark does a triennial list of the 50 most collected wines and Treasury Wine Estates' Penfolds brand holds the 2019 top three positions with its Grange shiraz, Bin 389 cabernet-shiraz and St Henri shiraz. Then comes Lake's Folly cabernets.
The Barossa Valley, nine entries, and the Hunter, six, were the top two regions in Wine Ark collectables. The top 50 had 42 reds and eight whites, shiraz, 25 entries, was the most popular variety and, with 27 wines, South Australia was the top state.
In addition to the Lake's Folly cabernets, Hunter brands in the top 50 were Tyrrell's Vat 1 semillon (14), Tyrrell's Vat 9 shiraz (25), Lake's Folly chardonnay (26), Tyrrell's Vat 47 chardonnay (32) and Brokenwood Graveyard shiraz (42).
Rod Kempe, who has been Lake's Folly winemaker since 2000, said the 2019 Wine Ark collectability placing was a great honour, especially since it had held a top ranking for the past 13 years.
Lake's Folly was established in Broke Rd, Pokolbin, in 1963 by surgeon, author, winemaker, bon vivant and wine judge Dr Max Lake and his wife Joy and carried on by their son Stephen.
Max Lake defied Hunter convention by planting cabernet sauvignon and producing world-class reds labelled cabernets and typically blends of 60 per cent, cabernet sauvignon, 22 per cent shiraz, 12 per cent petit verdot and 6 per cent merlot.
They and the chardonnays, from vines established in 1969, sell out within nine months of release.
In early 2000, Lake's Folly was acquired by Perth businessman Peter Fogarty and family and now forms part of the Fogarty Wine Group, which also owns Millbrook winery in the Perth Hills, Deep Woods Estate and Evans and Tate in Margaret River and Smithbrook in Pemberton.
FWG also controls Margaret River Wine Production, the largest wine processing facility in Margaret River. Recently FWG, through MRWP, invested in Tasmanian vineyards and processing through Tasmanian Vintners.
2013 FOLLY BEGUILES
AS USUAL the new-release 2017 is sold out but the Lake's Folly 2013 Cabernets is at lakesfolly.com.au and can be tasted and bought at the winery. With 12.6 per cent alcohol, it's deep purple, cassis-scented and beguiles with vibrant blackberry on the front palate. It has middle-palate cherry, mulberry, spice and mocha oak and a minty tannin finish.
PRICE: $130. DRINK WITH: Paella. AGEING: 15 years.
RATING: 5.5 stars
MULTI-FACETED WHITE
SHINING green-tinted light gold in the glass, this Lake's Folly 2018 Chardonnay has scents of orange blossom and oatmeal and lifted golden peach front-palate flavour. The middle palate features pear, lemon curd, mineral and vanillin oak and slatey acid refreshes at the finish. It's online and at the Broke Rd, Pokolbin, cellar door. PRICE: $80. DRINK WITH: Baked barramundi.
AGEING: 10 years.
RATING: 5 stars
MARK FROM ARK'S 50
FROM the marque in Wine Ark's top 50 list, this 13.7 per cent-alcohol, deep garnet-hued Tyrrell's 2017 Vat 9 Shiraz has berry pastille aromas and silky smooth blackcurrant front-palate flavour. The middle palate has bramble jelly, Satsuma plum, licorice and savoury oak and peppery tannins at the finish. At cellar door and on tyrrells.com.au.
PRICE: $110. DRINK WITH: fillet mignon.
AGEING: 15 years.
RATING: 5.5 stars.
