Just three weeks since moving from their premises above the Lyric Theatre in Wolfe Street where they opened as a pop-up six years ago, Nikki Bondini and her staff at Una Volta are well and truly settled in. It's only Wednesday night, and early at that, but already most of the tables are full.

The Bondini family originated from a little town called Malonno in the Brescia region of Lombardia in Northern Italy. Nikki's cooking is mainly influenced by the north, but she loves to cook and eat the food from all of Italy's regions.

The menu is uncompromising but we've no problem with that. Four courses, following the standard Italian antipasti, pasta, secondi, dolci format; $70 per person. It changes every four weeks, or more frequently depending on the availability of produce which is sourced locally where possible. Vegetarians and vegans are more than welcome, providing the restaurant is given notice. And kids are half price no matter how much they eat.

Local bakery, Bacco, provides the stretchy, moreish ciabatta. When one basket empties another arrives. Perfect for mopping up the last of any juices.

Antipasti include fleshy Sicilian olives, finely sliced salami with pickled cucumber, melanzane fritte (creamy eggplant coated in a crisp crust of breadcrumbs and Parmesan), caprese salad with oozy mozzarella, basil and sweet semi-dried tomatoes, and a small serving of zuppa di pesce, just big enough to put it into the antipasti category rather than as a more substantial primi.

So far, you've journeyed through Sicily, Liguria, Campania, Emilia Romagna and Lombardia. Another visit might also take you to Tuscany and areas south.

Pasta is gnocchi di patate, a Nikki specialty from Lombardia that is requested over and over, and it's a standout. Deceptively simple but not always successful in less experienced hands, tender pillows magically conjured from potato and flour are bathed in luscious Gorgonzola sauce. The kids give a thumbs up to their tomato and basil alternative.

Secondi is agnello arosto, roast lamb from Pukara Estate with sweet carrot purée, roasted fennel and a sticky jus, the meat so tender it can be pulled apart with two forks. There'll still be plenty of bread to finish every drop of jus.

And the salad of finely sliced radish and crisp greens is simply dressed with a zingy sauce at the last minute and provides a refreshing between-course interlude.

So far, it's been a bit like dining at your favourite nonna's house with the platters and bowls placed on the table to share. Unlike at nonna's you get to choose your dolce. Will it be the darkly rich crostata (caramel and walnut tart) with mascarpone or a trembling vanilla bean panna cotta refreshed with frutti de bosco? Both created with skill by Nikki's sister, Alicia.

Service is friendly and efficient but could do with a bit of finessing to match the standard of food. Just little things, like bringing fresh cutlery after each course.

Una Volta was inspired by the little family-run trattoria that Nikki would visit in Italy. No printed menu, just a small list of what was cooking that day. The emphasis was on the customers, enjoying good, fresh, local rustic food and wine. And I think they've nailed it on all counts. You'll want to come back more than una volta.