The cheffing couple of Rowell and Victoria Davidson have kept their Valentine cafe, Star Anise, open right through COVID, gradually building trade back to where it was pre-pandemic.

Encouraged by their customer loyalty and business success, the couple have expanded to open a second cafe in early September, taking over a vacant resturant site at 56 Brooks Parade in Belmont.

"Everything is a gamble with us," Rowell says. "And fortunately with us, we've had a very, loyal supportive community from Valentine, which also filters out this way. We've learned a lot in the four years we've been there - how we manage our business and our staff, and the style of food we do."

Star Anise calls its cuisine "modern European". It's casual, fresh and smart.

They have gained a dining reputation for tapas nights, Italian nights and a frequently changing weekend dinner menu.

They also make their own breads and cakes, as well as pastas.

The Valentine cafe is open seven days a week, from 8am. At the moment, as they shift attention to getting Belmont underway, there is no dinner service at Valentine.

The Belmont cafe is open 8am to 9pm Wednesday through Saturday.

Both restaurants have the same menu, including breakfast favourites eggs benedict and portobello mushrooms (both there from day one of the business). They serve Lavazza coffee.

Surviving COVID (so far) should earn them a badge of courage.

"We closed for half a day, had a meeting, sat down with staff and said, 'we either try something and hope it works, or shut shop and go to Centrelink'," Rowell says. "Everyone decided to stay on board. Everyone lost a lot of hours the first week. But it slowly grew back again."

Among the tools of success: a takeaway dining menu, which they had never had. Pizzas, pasta and fine dining too.

"At first, i just laughed at the idea," Rowell says. "But I had to swallow my pride to survive. It kept us afloat. Takeaways was our saviour."

Opening a new business during a pandemic has its challenges, too. Finding additional staff, including chefs and front of house people, has been difficult. The Belmont cafe still does not a dedicated phone line (customers can book by email staranisebelmont@gmail.com or through the Star Anise website.

Rowell has delivered a quick refresh to the Belmont site, with new lighting and new signage among other things. With COVID restrictions, dining is limited to 26 seats, but bookings have been brisk.

Rowell will be working at the Belmont cafe during morning shifts once things are in full swing, and shifting to Valentine for the dinner service.

Victoria is working at the Valentine cafe during mornings right now.

The couple have two young boys, which Valentine clientele know can occasionally be found at the restaurant while the Davidsons are working.

Rowell is keen on some new offerings at Star Anise Belmont as summer nears.

"We know there lots of walkers [on the foreshore], and we will capitalise in summer, with takeways. We will introduce takeaway seafood over summer. When you have the view for it, I can't see why you can't have fresh seafood.

"Not just deep fried, but fresh seafood. We want to offer something different. Prawns, oysters, bugs - hopefully it takes off."

Seafood platters have been a hit when offered at Valentine, with over 50 sold on Good Friday alone. The Davidsons also do a small amount of catering - and seafood is one of their specialties.