It is always refreshing to meet a young chef with a good head on his shoulders. If that chef happens to be talented but also grounded, well, that's just the cherry on top.
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Lawrence Woodcock - better known as Larry - fits the bill.
The 23-year-old has been head chef at Wil & Sons on Newcastle's Darby Street for the past three years. He admits he was "diving into the deep end" when he agreed to take on the role but wouldn't change a thing.
"I'm a Newcastle local through and through - I grew up in Hamilton South, then went to Newcastle High and St Pius," he tells Weekender.
"I've been working in kitchens since I was 14. I started out as a kitchenhand at The Brewery and then started my apprenticeship at The Edwards."
From a young age, he says, he was keen to work. When the opportunity to cook presented itself, he jumped at the chance.
"Toby Wilson was manager at The Edwards and I was the sous chef and then he and his father, Phil, took over The Hop Factory, which is what Will & Sons was previously called," Woodcock explains.
"Toby asked me if I wanted to come on board as head chef. I'm not gonna lie - I had no clue what I was doing at first. I was 20 and taking on the responsibility of managing the entire restaurant, pretty much."
When venues had to effectively close their doors in 2020 due to COVID-19, Woodcock changed the menu to takeaway only and ran Larry's Burgers from Wil & Sons. He says it "gave everyone a break" during a hectic few months.
"We've had really good regulars who have been with us since day dot, so we haven't really had a 'bounceback' from COVID as such," he says.
"Business has been steady whether people come in for a chat, a coffee, a beer or a feed. I like to come out of the kitchen and connect with the regulars."
There is no particular philosophy behind his cooking. He simply cooks food that he enjoys eating and hopes others like it too.
"My food has been called Australian contemporary before. It's somewhere in the middle of finer dining and gastro-pub food, I'd say," he says.
"I do like Japanese food so I work that into the menu when I can."
So, what's on the summer menu? Snacks include kangaroo tartare, kingfish sashimi and ceviche, fried olives and "handmade" spring rolls.
Mains include barramundi with soy tempura enoki, green beans, dashi, pea puree and a wakame crumb; the wagyu rump with burnt carrot puree, broccolini, chicken fat potato, chimichurri, radish, jus and shallot oil; or the saffron, chilli, garlic and fennel mussels with cherry tomatoes, coriander, toasted sourdough and lemon.
"It's nothing extravagant but they are dishes that people don't usually do at home," Woodcock says.
"I just want to keep the menu simple but tasty."
As for the breakfast menu, it ranges from the Willies bowl (coriander white rice, pickled carrot, kimchi pickle, roasted pumpkin, kale and wasabi) through to spiced scrambled eggs (tzatziki, house chilli jam, crisp kale and toasted brioche).
Suppliers include Darby Street Butchers just 100 metres up the road from Wil & Sons, Newcastle Greens, Sydney Direct Fresh Produce and Shane's Seafood at Carey Bay.
Woodcock credits "the boys from Moor Newcastle East, in particular Shane Brunt" and chef Darryl Popp (Nor East Bistro) with being mentors and good mates.
"I can call on them for help if I need to," he says.
"That's the way you do it as a chef in Newcastle - whoever you have worked with, you try to continue a good friendship with them.
"Everybody knows everybody.
"I just want to be a happy chef; to be happy with what I do, no matter how stressful it gets, and produce the best food that I can."
Read more: Dining review by Daniel Honan: Wil & Sons
Wil & Sons, 102 Darby Street, Cooks Hill. Phone 4929 4854 to book. Closed Mondays.
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