I say "somehow" because I marvel at how he has found the time. Smith is in charge of Roundhouse, Ms Mary and Romberg's at Newcastle's first five-star hotel, plus conferences and in-room dining.

When I spoke to him earlier this month he said his menu was modern European with "hints" of Japanese flavours, and cited as an example the yellowfin tuna with yuzu kosho, fermented chilli and citrus. Native Australian ingredients are also prominent, like saltbush, pepperberry, wattleseed and Davidson plum.

The menu at Roundhouse is small but varied, and portion sizes more generous than anticipated. Staff are friendly and keen to share the Crystalbrook "climate calories" approach to dining.

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We ordered the sourdough with Pukara Estate olive oil and caramelised balsamic as a starter. There was no sourdough, and the alternative was a small slice of baguette, not enough for two. The warm Adina Estate olives with preserved lemon and sumac made up for it. They were juicy and full of flavour, and there were plenty of them.

The heritage baby beets entree with aged balsamic, almond ricotta and molasses was plated beautifully. The almond ricotta was the standout, linking all the elements on the plate.

Mains? We chose the free-range duck breast with celeriac, witlof, persimmon and Davidson plum jus (the duck was tender with a crispy and well-seasoned skin, and complemented by the jus), and the market fish with cime di rapa, Jervis Bay mussels and bouillabaisse sauce. The broth had an pleasant earthy undertone.

We couldn't find room for dessert.

The restaurant itself is stunning, with subdued lighting allowing you to take in the city and harbour lights from the floor to ceiling windows. From the moment you walk up the steps into Crystalbrook Kingsley, in fact, you can't help but feel dazzled, but Roundhouse can't rely on its view and "wow factor" alone. There are plenty of quality alternatives in Newcastle's CBD these days. Fortunately, its wine and food offering holds its own.

And I have a feeling there is more to come from Smith. He's just getting warmed up.

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