"There have been so many challenges: prices are up, supplies have been limited, staffing has been an issue. You just have to do the best you can and adapt daily," says Jenness, who with fiance Lisa Cussen has run Wollombi Road Providore for seven years.

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Notwithstanding the hardship, which most recently included closing briefly amid floods, the Cessnock store, which has a "farm-to-fork" policy, has won the best small business category at the Fresh Awards in Sydney.

"We were really happy to be finalist, so to be noticed also with anonymous voting and judging, on a NSW and ACT scale, was amazing," says Mr Jenness, whose prior business ventures in Cessnock include owning Amicos Restaurant and then the Paxton Hotel.

Raised in Cessnock, Mr Jenness and Ms Cussen started Wollombi Road Providore in 2015, taking over a former fruit shop that had sat idle for almost two years.

Its aim was to source products direct from local farmers and producers to sell to customers, and also to wholesale to restaurants and cafes in the area.

"We are trying to do things differently, we say 'paddock to plate' because it's famous now but we compete with the multinationals who are all within cooee," he said.

The Providore sources a range of fruit and vegetables from local farmers and those supplying Sydney's Flemington markets, typically ordering produce on the same day it is picked from a field and delivered overnight.

"We are trying to get it to you sooner and fresher and then you can taste the difference, which is our catch cry. It's not been in a controlled cool room and should taste like it did once upon a time - full flavoured and fresh," he says. "It's an education to train your staff and then they say to a customer, 'Taste this tomato, this is what it should taste'."

The Providore's decision to support local producers and farmers he knows from years of business paid off in the pandemic. As supermarket shelves emptied, Mr Jenness was able to continue to keep his own produce delivered by his suppliers flowing, with few hiccups.

"Because you buy directly from them, you help them to help you, they give you a better product and they appreciate your business. I have been dealing with the same guys for six or seven years and they know I like quality and make sure we get the best,"

As the first 2020 lockdown hit, Wollombi Road Providore fortuitously launched its online website, allowing its retail and wholesale customers to "click and collect" fruit and vegie boxes, or have them delivered.

Where he could, he employed local chefs whose work had dried up to help him pack boxes and soon operations expanded to include selling ready-made meals such as curries and stirfries, often using in-store, seasonal produce which might be "marked" or imperfect but is still delicious, helping to reduce food waste.

"Reducing waste is a big thing for us. In fact, we had Oz Harvest come here on Tuesday, we only had one box of stuff to give them."

More recently, the Providore has opened a small coffee spot and a courtyard where dishes ranging from fresh salads to soups are served.

Mr Jenness says local support is strong and the service they offer, such as carrying the bags of customers to their cars, is appreciated.

"We go over and above and show them the freshest produce we can get our hands on, there's a different dynamic when things come from the farm," he says.

Despite the current economic and staffing challenges, Mr Jeness says he hopes to keep building his business.

"We've started the cafe and food area in the shop, we do flowers, just trying to adapt as we go," he says.

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