'Excited to get up there': Inside The Beach Hotel's new restaurant

It's a restaurant, and it's called Peregrin.

Located on the first floor of the Merewether hotel, Peregrin opens to a large balcony that offers stunning views down the beach corridor all the way to Strzelecki Lookout.

"Upstairs, so much of it was unused because it had been a residence for so long," hotelier Glenn Piper told the Herald in December. "Being able to open it up and make it available to the public ... people will be really excited to get up there and see that space, because most people haven't set foot up there."

The hotel has been refurbished in stages since it changed hands in May 2022, with Piper determined to pay homage to its historic past every step of the way. The hotel reopened just before Christmas.

And Peregrin is no exception. The restaurant takes its name from the Latin word for "traveller" and honours a time when The Beach Hotel was the final stop on the Merewether Beach tram line.

EJE Architecture designed Peregrin's space to evoke the simpler days of mid-century Newcastle. The side stairway displays key moments in time; the people, community, travellers and immigrants that have forged its identity. The elegance and warmth of natural timber and the saloon-like bar were "designed to reflect the ever-changing landscape and wild ocean at Peregrin's doorstep ... the deep, rich colour palette contrasts the sun-bleached daylight, providing a warm, moody space in the evening".

Peregrin's food offering uses the simple, natural flavours of salt, wood and smoke to create an elevated bar and grill offering that celebrates the hotel's surroundings.

"Just like The Beach Hotel below it, the restaurant has been created with connections to the community's history plus a healthy dose of surf and sand to be a place that feels familiar and fun while offering a fresh take on some of our country's best produce," Piper said.

Executive chef Adam Rust has created a season-led menu centred around premium ingredients found on the land and in the ocean cooked over a traditional charcoal grill at the heart of Peregrin's open kitchen. Entrees include smoked yumba abalone with fennel, herbs and lemon; wagyu croquettes with beetroot relish and wasabi leaf; and Peregrin's take on a classic "bug roll" filled with Moreton Bay bug, cos, crispy onion and chipotle mayo.

For mains, there's charcoal-fired eastern rock lobster served with a garlic lemon butter; whole roasted cauliflower topped with salsa verde, currants and almond dukkah; Milly Hill lamb tomahawks with chimichurri and potato pave; and steaks. To finish, indulge in a lemon myrtle polenta cake with lemon sorbet and pistachio or a dark chocolate fondant with candied hazelnuts, wattleseed and salted caramel.

"Unfussy and relaxed, Peregrin's menu has been designed to let the incredible natural flavours of the best local produce we could find shine through," Rust said. "... we wanted to offer something that gives you a distinct taste of the nature, history and coastline of Merewether."

Those looking to enjoy a quiet cocktail will be able to order snacks and small plates at Peregrin's bar: think Port Stephens oysters with pickled cucumber; smoked mackerel toast with red onion and creme fraiche; and charcoal-fried calamari with mint, garlic, lemon and tarragon. Signature cocktails include the Royal Beach Club (EARP Just Juniper Gin, St Germain, Lillet Blanc, prosecco, cucumber and lemon myrtle) and, for a sweeter palette, Bees & Honey (Absolut Vanilla, Triple Sec, Zubrowka, honey, apple, passionfruit and lemon). A bespoke wine list has also been curated with a focus on Hunter Valley region vineyards.