In late February I was over the moon when I secured a press pass to the country's biggest world music festival. I was heading south, to Womadelaide. I recognised about three artists on the lineup, which made it all the more exciting, four days of all kinds of music from musicians I'd never heard of. New music from across the planet, with an eight-hour Spotify playlist to help familiarise myself. I arrived in Adelaide with a list as big as Brazil of acts to check out.
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There were so many names to see, and I'd barely made it through the beginning of the alphabet. There was Beninese singer Angélique Kidjo, a five-time Grammy award winner. I was excited to see The Cambodian Space Project, reviving Cambodia's golden age of rock 'n' roll. Top 40 artist Corrinne Bailey Rae of the UK was on my list as was Brisbane-based First Nations R&B singer Dean Brady. I liked the Fijian rapper and reggae artist Ju Ben. I listened to all these on the plane and then saw them live.
In 1982 the original World of Music, Arts and Dance (WOMAD) festival happened in the UK, established by rock musician Peter Gabriel. Ten years later it went international, arriving at Adelaide's Botanic garden (where it still happens). Womadelaide is renowned for an exceptional lineup with the most unique performances across a range of music genres. This year the festival had 72 acts from over 40 countries.
In four days I was able to see more than 20 acts, and I would have loved to have seen more.
WOMAD 2024 happened during a major heat wave. I dripped sweat, I got tipsy easily and I think I've met my vitamin D quota for the rest of the year. After my first day trying to push to the front of stages to get the best view and content, I quickly changed tactics, often stretching out under a nice shady tree opting to listen more comfortably instead. It's fun to see the artists sing and dance, but it's not sustainable for a four-day festival in 40+ degree temperatures with little shelter.
Last year WOMAD had record breaking numbers of over 100,000 attendees and this year nearly 98,000 people went with more four-day passes purchased than ever before.
SMALL STAGE STARS
Tip for to future festival goers: see as much as you can, but don't forget the gems on the smaller stages. The most moving music I heard was from The Good Ones, a duo from Rwanda who speak no English. Adrian Kazigira and Janvier Havugimana sing and play soothing acoustic songs, beautiful even if you can't understand the words. Survivors of the 1994 Rwandan Genocide, for them music is a form of healing. Their spokesperson told us that through WOMAD they were given the chance to not only leave their country but also leave the continent. First for WOMAD in the UK in 2014 and now at WOMAD in Australia, their WOMAD performances led to Western publicity and more music opportunities although they still rarely get a chance to travel. The money they'll make from this WOMAD will help feed both their families for the next three years.
Also at a smaller stage was Katanga Jr, originally from Tanzania now based in Alice Springs, NT. He was excited to play for the first time at WOMAD. He and his five-piece band all dressed in colorful clothing. They filled the crowd with joy and movement.
Lead singer Katanga thinks WOMAD is a beautiful big festival. He was particularly excited to see headliner Ziggy Marley who inspired much of his own work.
"It's amazing," he says of the festival. "It's so good to see the music and all the people are happy with so many good musicians."
THE BEST
My highlights from big acts included South Korean band Leenalchi, which had three singers, two bassists and a drummer and sounds I'd never heard before.
"It's okay if you don't understand the lyrics. It doesn't matter, it's enough for your body to move to the music," singer Ahn Yi-ho told the massive audience.
Dubioza kolektiv are a high energy group who formed after the war in Bosnia. Describing themselves as the biggest band in the Balkans, they play a combination of ska, reggae, punk, electronica and hip hop. They were so much fun! Dressed in all yellow with partially shaved heads and long braids, the seven-man band brought a light show as well. They had me laughing and jumping. With arrow signs they directed the crowds to move right and left while dancing.
I loved how acts encouraged audience participation and enthusiasm.
Mexican Merimba punk rock band Son Rompe Pera waved the Mexican flag around in the audience. One member crowd surfed and both shows ended with the keyboardist turning the keyboard upside down and parading it around the stage.
Angolan Portuguese singer and performer Pongo was incredibly beautiful and absolutely mesmerizing to listen to. On Monday night during one of the last shows of the evening, she brought three kids on stage to dance with her. She was talented and charming, the perfect combination.
Josh Lane, the lead singer of US band Thee Sacred Soul, crooned into the microphone and then left the stage singing and running through the crowd, keeping even the folks in the back, under the trees entertained.
PALESTINE
Lane was one of several artists I saw, including Australian artist Mo'Ju and Elle Shimada (from Tokyo,now Melbourne-based) who called for a Free Palestine during their sets.
It's no surprise given the ongoing war on Gaza, but WOMAD was also under scrutiny this year for uninviting Palestinian hip hop electronica group 47Soul to perform, citing safety concerns. 47Soul has played at previous Womadelaids, and the band announced their disappointment with this decision days before the festival.
British-Lebanese DJ Saliah pulled out of the festival in response. She described WOMAD's rhetoric behind the decision as "deeply problematic".
WOMADelaide director Ian Scobie said in a statement that WOMADelaide had made the decision to not invite an Israeli act as well for the 2024 festival.
On Sunday March 10, an apology post went up on the WOMADelaid website.
"We strive to amplify the voices of all people, and WOMADelaide has a proud history of supporting Palestinian voices and presenting Palestinian artists.
As longstanding WOMAD festival-goers will already know, your voices and your opinions are genuinely important to us, and we extend our sympathy and apologies if this situation has caused any disappointment or hurt," the statement said.
They also reiterated in the statement that they hoped 47Soul would join WOMAD in 2025.
Reggae artist Ziggy Marley was a headliner on this year's bill, one whom many protesters called out for his previous support of Israel. He started his show singing Shalom Salaam asking for peace for the children of Israel and Palestine. Shortly thereafter Palestinian flags and banners went up from protesters in the crowd.
Politics aside, I would be willing to bet that as a result of this controversy, more people now know about 47Soul than ever before.
ENVIRONMENT
Another aspect of the festival I appreciate is WOMAD's dedication to the environment.
I've been to many festivals, but never have I seen the recycling and reusable cups so diligently patrolled. It seemed like WOMAD cared a lot.
In 2013 Planet Talks were incorporated into the festival program and have been going ever since. Monday's planet talk on Deep Listen to Nature by nature sound recorder Andrew Skeoch was a stimulating and fascinating experience. My favourite part was when the audience was asked to make collective nature sounds. We whistled, we cooed, we blew like the wind and pretended to be insects.
After last week's WOMAD, nearly 100,000 people have had an opportunity to learn and listen to music from the world they might never have heard of otherwise, and musicians, especially artists like The Good Ones are getting opportunities and global exposure that can help their families for years to come.
Overall it's an incredible experience and I'd absolutely go again.
