IF you look closely at the signage on the awning at the Commonwealth Hotel in Cooks Hill, you might notice that one of the letters has been replaced.
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On the corner side of the sign is the pub's abbreviated name, The Commy. Little did the pub's owners know how controversial it would be.
"We originally put 'Commo' up and people were like, 'That's amazing' and the other half were like 'No, how could you?'," owner Cath Antaw laughs.
"I think half of Newcastle and Cooks Hill call it the Commo and they are very against it being called the Commy. Whereas the other half say, 'No, it's the Commy, not the Commo'. It has been a bit controversial."
The 'O' has since been replaced with a 'Y', but she says they plan to change it every few years to keep both sides happy.
"It's amazing how passionate people are about what's right. There are compelling arguments from both sides," Antaw says.
"I used to always say Commo, but the Commy people are quite vocal, so I sit on the fence."
Antaw took over the Commonwealth Hotel five years ago with husband Stewart Smith. Together they have restored the pub to its former glory, renovating the space throughout to embrace the historical charm of the hotel which was built in 1882. Back then, it was known as the Cosmopolitan Hotel.
The courtyard is among the changes they made, creating an inviting, green-filled space with flowering pots hung from the roof and vines covering the walls.
They recently took advantage of the opportunity to complete further renovations during the COVID-19 shutdown, restoring the original pressed tin ceiling in the front bar.
"It has made the space feel a bit more lighter and airier, and really reinforced the heritage and character of it being your old-school corner pub," Antaw says.
Phil Pearce leads the team in the kitchen, with the focus on offering high-quality gastropub-style meals and lots of gluten-free options.
There are pub staples such as lamb cutlets, beer battered fish and schnitzels, or go for one of the mains: think snapper fillet pan seared and served with a mixed seafood, chorizo and chilli hot pot and crunchy Asian noodles ($29.90); or rosé prawn and clam penne garlic, Spanish onion, cherry tomatoes, rocket ($26.90).
Monday nights are when it gets really interesting in the restaurant at the weekly Moreish Mondays event. For $35, diners can enjoy a mystery menu featuring an entree, main and dessert (add a matched cocktail for $10).
"Basically, the chefs can do whatever they want. They can experiment, which is the whole concept that it's a mystery," Antaw says.
"It is generally about putting flavours together that you wouldn't normally think of doing that, hopefully, you think, 'Wow, that really works' and ingredients that if you were at a restaurant and saw it on the menu, perhaps you might be a little reluctant to order. We recently did a confit duck with a blue pickled poached egg, which really popped on the plate."
Moreish Mondays are popular, so it is essential to book a table.
"Ten years ago I wouldn't have had the confidence to do Moreish Monday. I think people couldn't cop being served a pickled blue poached egg, but now they can't get enough," she says.
"Diners want to interact with the chef and talk about the food. It makes it great for us to be able to get really engaged, high quality chefs. Newcastle has a great food scene. The benchmark keeps getting higher."
The details
- Location: Corner of Union and Bull streets, Cooks Hill.
- Food: Starters and sides, burgers, salads, pub classics, mains, desserts, and kids meals. Lunch specials for $13 available Monday to Friday. The restaurant operates seven days all day until 9pm.
- Drinks: 20 beers on tap, including Shout Brewing, Grainfed and Stone & Wood; wine list featuring Hunter Valley wineries such as David Hook, Tamburlaine, Tyrrell's, Margan, Hungerford Hill, Tulloch, Usher Tinkler and Stormy Ridge.
- Drink to try: Shout Brewing Co IPA.
- Dish to try: Viking pork cutlet, glazed with sweet soy, served with a crispy warm potato salad with rocket, cherry tomatoes, red onion and chilli aioli $29.90.