A pretty different feeling pervades the region this year, compared to last year.

Relief, mostly, tinged with a mindful dose of optimism and a deserved sense of satisfaction.

Coming off the back of four long years of drought capped by fires and smoke, and a global pandemic, rain fell at just the right time leading into vintage 2021, before La Nina kicked in proper, bringing more rain and the kind of cool days and nights not really seen since 2016.

"All things considered, the reds look really good," Mike De Iuliis, of De Iuliis Wines says.

"Not that I didn't have any great hopes for a good year, but for a while there, with so much rain about, I was thinking we were going to be in a bit of trouble.

"But, no, the rain eased and the sun shined and we managed to turn things around really well."

Every year's a battle for the winegrowers of Australia's oldest wine region, but it's a battle they more than often win.

Freshness and elegance is the call for Hunter wines this year. Especially, the reds. Freshness. And elegance.

"I'm seeing a slight difference in the aromatic profile of our reds, this year, thanks to the cooler mornings and nights we've experienced throughout the growing season," Pepper Tree head winemaker, Gwyn Olsen, says.

"The wines are very fruitful and fragrant, elegant and bright.

"There's some beautiful, spicy notes coming through on our shiraz, which have a sort of cool climate aspect to them.

"I'm very pleased with how everything's turned out, to be honest."

Alternate varietals, particularly those of Italian origin, continue to make their presence felt in the Hunter, impressing those winegrowers and makers who dare to dabble with such fruit.

Indeed, Andrew Margan of Margan Wines continues to lead from the front.

"Our Barbera looks outstanding, this year, I must say," Margan says.

"That's my pick of the vintage. Because of the cooler weather and longer ripening times, the wine is showing some beautiful aromatics, lovely texture and fine balance.

Same with the Tempranillo. It's very aromatic this year and, I think, is well suited to the fresher, more medium bodied red wine styles we've made this year."

While some producers now turn their attention to fruit from outside of the region, the Hunter Valley vintage 2021 is officially done.

Even the cabernet at Lake's Folly, and De Iuliis' own Montepulciano d'Abruzzo have been brought safely into the winery.

"I always wait till Rod, over at Lake's Folly, is done picking his cabernet, before I even think about picking monte," De Iuliis says.

"It seems to take forever to ripen, but, I think it's looking the goods. It's got some beautiful aromatics, the colour's good.

"It's definitely more medium-bodied, this year. Let's just say, it's not shit," he laughs.

Fruitful and fragrant. Freshness and elegance. Will 2021 be another classic Hunter Valley vintage? I'm predicting, yes, but only time will tell.

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