CAVES Beachside Hotel has a lot going for it: a prime seafront location bringing ozone-scented ocean breezes, a bistro with seating for 400 inside and out, a cafe serving big breakfasts, coffee and cake all day, and what used to be "C" Restaurant, now reopened as the new, modern Australian restaurant and steak house called Atriplex.
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Add a kitchen headed by executive chef Ebonnie Newby, whose talents were nurtured by owners Greg and Jan Hopper at Bayviews Warners Bay in the late 1990s, then honed over the past 10 years at Esca Bimbadgen, and you have a recipe for success.
First impressions are good; we look down over a light-filled, high-ceilinged space with elegantly clothed tables, sparkling glass and silver and wait, along with another group, to be shown to our table . . . and wait . . . and wait.
Finally the very friendly but overworked waitress appears and we are handed our menus. Fortunately, it's not too long before some very good bread and butter arrive and our water glasses are filled.
All is forgiven when we receive the amuse-bouche - a single, tempura-coated prawn with a drizzle of nam jim sauce and a dollop of aioli, which fills the short gap between ordering and receiving the first course.
As is so often the case, entrees sound so much more interesting than the mains: truffled, honey-glazed micro beetroot salad with duetto (mascarpone and gorgonzola) and watercress ($17); the signature dish of seared scallops with cauliflower and miso emulsion, hazelnut vinaigrette and petit herbs ($22), or "Grainge" beef carpaccio with baby rocket, shaved grana padano, goat's cheese and universal sauce ($18), to name just three.
The beetroot and duetto cheese is a perfect match, as are the sweetly tender scallops and cauliflower puree; and supple slices of raw beef contrast so well with crunchy parmesan wafers and piquant sauce.
But you won't be disappointed by the orange and tea-smoked duck breast ($36). A pinkly moist fillet sits on a bed of wild mushroom and barley risotto and al dente broccolini, crowned with a thatch of baby coriander and more wild mushrooms.
Sticky, finger-licking good American-style pork ribs come with Paris mash potatoes, caramelised apples and a good red wine jus ($31). Do order some Paris mash if it doesn't come with your choice of main. Total indulgence, a generous serve weighs in at $6. Add a dish of crunchy green beans with slivered almonds and parmesan to ease the guilt ($8).
Desserts are sometimes the neglected bridesmaid. Two have the potential to overturn preconceptions. Deconstructed "lamington" ($16) has all the usual components, but that is where the resemblance ends. Wobbly chocolate jelly sits beside a scoop of coconut ice-cream on a shower of sponge crumbs. A streak of chocolate truffle sauce and curls of shaved coconut complete the equation.
The pick must be the twice-baked cheese cake ($17). It arrives inside a white chocolate ball that collapses under the hot berry sauce poured at the table; spectacular.
The only slight disappointment: I couldn't detect the pop rock, which may have dissolved during the cooking. And a few minor service glitches need improving, but - given the setting - who's complaining?
What: Atriplex @ Caves.
Where: Caves Beachside Hotel, 7 Mawson Close, Caves Beach; 4980 9999.
Chef: Ebonnie Newby.
Wines: Two wine lists - 36 mid-priced selection, 31 of these by the glass, plus cellar selection of premium Australian wines, subject to availability - bottle only.
Hours: Lunch 12pm Saturday and Sunday; dinner 6pm Friday and Saturday.
Vegetarian: One entree, one main on the regular menu.
Bottom line: Entree, main, dessert about $135 for two without drinks.
Wheelchair access: Lift from car park but steps down into restaurant. Ask when booking.
Do try: Orange and tea smoked duck breast, wild mushroom and barley risotto.
