VIDEO: Going troppo in the Cook Islands

Not for fear of shady characters or alcohol-fuelled violence; rather for fear of self-inflicted wounding via the demon drink.

My travelling companions and I were on an escorted Go Troppo nightlife tour. Our first stop had been Trader Jack’s, on the Avarua harbour foreshore. The post-dinner lure of sitting on the breakwall, sipping cocktails and watching sea-snakes and crabs scamper in the floodlit shallows had already consumed much of our night and achieved my alcohol quota.

See a video of Eve Nesmith's time in the Cook Islands by clicking below.

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Video produced by Amy Spear

So I resisted the lure of Rehab, despite its drinks priced in New Zealand dollars and the camaraderie of mildly curious, loose clusters of young Cook Islanders; so many males looking like footy players and so many girls looking like younger versions of the smiling and voluptuous women who keep the Rarotongan tourism industry chugging along.

Tourism is an essential element in the Cook Islands economy. Air New Zealand recently introduced direct flights from Sydney to Rarotonga, one of the cluster of 15 tiny islands that includes Aitutaki, famed for its white-sand beaches and turquoise lagoon.

The flights and the spread of accommodation in the islands, from the most exclusive couple’s getaways to budget-priced family holidays, along with a plethora of safe yet secluded beach frontage, means more Australians than ever are experiencing the Cooks.

Rarotonga, the main island and gateway to the Cooks, is about 32 kilometres in circumference. If you’re like most who visit the islands, one of your first stops will be the police station to obtain your scooter licence. Your next stop will be a scooter hire-shop.

However, if you like to let someone else do the driving, the public transport system is tourist friendly. There are two buses, one clockwise and one counter-clockwise, which circle the island and take in most destinations.

Many of the resorts are located near Muri Beach. The Little Polynesian Restaurant and Bar, the Muri Beach Resort and the Pacific Resort can all be found on this coastal stretch, fringed by a wide expanse of lagoon.

Muri Beach is also home to Te Vara Nui, an interactive replica village showcasing many facets of Cook Islands culture. Tours culminate in a traditional banquet and dance performance.

For more pictures of the Cook Islands, click on the image below.

I spent two nights on the opposite side of the island, at the family-friendly Edgewater Resort, and a further three nights at The Avana Waterfront Apartments, where there were many hours to be wiled away in the private pool or kayaking in the lagoon.

Like tourism, religion is another serious business, metaphorically and literally. The tithe that each church extracts from its parishioners goes to the island’s governing religious body and doesn’t necessarily stay in an individual village.

The upkeep of the church, the financial needs of the pastor, the lavish floral decorations and the burden of the sumptuous post-service morning teas (put on largely for the pleasure of overseas tourists who, presumably, are heavy contributors to the passing of the plate) are borne by the villagers.

My visit to the Cook Islands Christian Church, at Ngatangia, came the morning after the Go Troppo nightlife tour. It seemed disrespectful to attend someone’s house of worship with a hangover, and, just quietly, I’d also heard that the singing, while spectacular, carried a fair whack in the volume stakes.

The impressive, whitewashed building was blinding in the morning sunlight and I was again thankful for my moderation. Flanked by a mango plantation, the church was surprisingly modern inside. There were mounted fans to cool every aisle; the pastor spoke into a PA system and was backed by a large projector screen showing the words to hymns.

The Polynesian harmonies soared and resonated. The enraptured faces raised their voices to God while keeping one eye firmly on the little children scampering in the aisles.

For a spiritual experience of a different ilk, my travelling companions and I were also sent to meet the enigmatic Pa and undertake one of his cross-island ‘‘walks’’.

I use the term ‘‘walk’’ loosely because, for this 41-year-old desk jockey, it was a full-on, at times on hands-and-knees, sweaty, muddy and exhausting trek across the island’s interior.

Pa, a self-styled environmentalist and spiritual advisor, conducts these walks barefoot and garbed only in a lap-lap and fringes of vine around his biceps and calves.

During his introduction, as he ensured we were all suitably slathered with his home-made insect repellent, he said he had conducted 4061 walks since May 10, 1984.

It wasn’t until our first rest-stop that he decided to share the fact that, in that time, 41 people had heart attacks en route.

The trek led up the valley and across the island under a thick canopy to The Needle, a natural rock monolith affording stunning coastal views.

Following the obligatory scenic snapshots we wound our way back down the valley to finish at a natural waterfall for a mandatory cooling-off dip.

While the native forest under the canopy was spectacular and the coastal views from The Needle breathtaking, if I had realised what I was in for I probably would have rated this a bit too much like hard work. I could have used the few extra hours to meander more through the Avarua waterfront markets.

The markets are open every day except Sunday but the Saturday one is something special. In addition to the food, clothes, crafts and produce, the markets are a great spot to pick up a black pearl or three.

Black pearls are a hallmark of French Polynesia and the Cook Islands. They are the work of black-lipped oysters, found only in these waters, and you can find orbs in a multitude of shapes, colours, sizes and price tags.

While there are many things to tempt your eye - and your wallet - there is one absolute must-buy for any visitor to the Cook Islands. As a matter of fact, I’d recommend that you make it your first stop after clearing customs.

I’m not talking black pearls or a Matutu beer t-shirt (although these make pretty neat souvenirs). I’m talking water. My motel compendium (somewhat belatedly, on the back page) advocated the drinking of bottled-only water and my tardy adoption of this policy made for some seriously unhappy episodes.

So, traveller beware - despite the best of intentions, I, too, was a victim of the demon drink, albeit in the most unexpected way.

Perhaps I should have gone to Rehab after all.

IF YOU GO

Air New Zealand flies direct between Sydney and Rarotonga weekly, from Sydney on Saturdays and Rarotonga on Fridays.

Air New Zealand: www.airnewzealand.com.au

Te Vara Nui: www.tevaranui.co.ck/

Edgewater Resort: www.edgewater.co.ck/

Avana Waterfront Apartments: www.avanawaterfront.co.ck/

Go Troppo Tours: www.islandhoppervacations.com

Pa’s treks: www.pastreks.com/

* The writer was a guest of Air New Zealand and Cook Islands Tourism.