Much attention has been paid to the evolution and growth of Newcastle's food scene in recent years but not the restaurants responsible for drawing diners to the city in the first place.
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Restaurants with a well-earned reputation for quality, customer-focused service and refined, locally-sourced seasonal menus.
Restaurants like subo.
Kay Roberts took over ownership of the Hunter Street institution in 2021 from Beau and Suzie Vincent and patiently weathered the COVID storm, having "missed qualifying for any form of government financial support by just a few weeks".
"This caused a little stress, however being in the same operational boat as everyone else gave us some solace," she tells Weekender.
"After the fear subsided, it was the uncertainty that was the biggest issue. The goalposts continually shifted. We just kept a focus on our team, our suppliers and our customers and just did what we could, when we could."
Months of reservations had to be cancelled when in-house seated dining ceased. Roberts introduced the "subo at home" pick-up option which, understandably, was not easy due to the fine dining nature of subo's menu.
Roberts says the pandemic "hangover" continues to be felt today.
"It changed diners' eating habits and timing. Guests used to eat later, now they all eat earlier, which with limited seating means we've changed our service timings to suit. The upside is that we actually met a lot of new customers through the 'subo at home' process."
Roberts was a long-time fan of subo before buying the restaurant, and it shows. She knows what she fell in love with as a regular diner at the restaurant, and pays attention to the smallest of details.
At subo, the customer truly does come first.
Roberts has made subtle changes to subo's decor and table settings since taking over, mindful of not wanting to divert diners' attention from the menu ("Wholesale change at a venue can be polarising and generally negatively affects the dining experience"). The restaurant's philosophy remains the same: to offer guests refined food in a relaxed setting served by engaged and attentive staff.
"Beau and Suzie paved the way, elevating the Newcastle dining scene," Roberts says. "The fact that the restaurant continues to operate in its 12th year is a testament to that fact."
The subo menu changes twice seasonally, which means chefs Alannah Miceli, Scott McLean and Hayden Booth are able to access the best available ingredients at any given time.
"Alannah shares our passion for responsibly sourced offerings, and has extensive experience in large-format fine-dining venues in Sydney, so she is taking the lead in pulling together our menus," Roberts says.
The restaurant's first six-course winter menu for 2023 launched this month. Vegetarian, pescatarian and vegan alternatives can be catered for if advanced notice is provided.
"Our first course is beetroot mille feuille, beetroot sponge, parsnip cream and parsnip chips, highlighting two root vegetables but not as you would expect," she says.
"Second course is steamed local snapper, a warm salad of black and white fungus and snow peas, a light Asian dressing and finished with torched local calamari.
"Third course is game farm chicken roulade with herb mousse. It is accompanied by a carrot and black truffle puree and herb gel, and finished off with a chicken jus and grated Tasmanian black truffle.
"Fourth course is Bangalow Berkshire Pork prepared two ways. The loin is sous vide then roasted, and the shoulder is slow cooked in aromatics and then pressed and seared. It's served with a roasted cauliflower and celeriac puree and spiced prunes."
The fifth course is "a play on affogato" using black sesame ice-cream, a chocolate crumb and a matcha syrup, while the sixth course is a stunning blueberry and elderflower mousse with a blueberry and elderflower gel hidden inside.
Also on offer are Sydney Rock Oysters to start and an additional cheese course. Wines are available in either a full or half-glass option so "designated drivers may also enjoy the experience".
subo, 551D Hunter Street, Newcastle West. Open for dinner Wednesday to Saturday from 5pm.
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