Opening a restaurant in Newcastle's city centre in mid-2022 was a daunting task for South Korean-born chef Sunny Chae but also the realisation of a dream.
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He was head chef at Blooming Garden when it opened at Hamilton, but COVID restrictions threw a spanner in the works. Chae - who quit a civil engineering course at university to pursue a cooking career - stopped working and started pondering his life choices.
"I missed my life as a chef, however, there was also a piece of me that was scared to return," Chae told the Newcastle Herald in 2022.
"The reason I was able to overcome this was thanks to my daughter, Minsol. She told me that she wanted to see me cook in a restaurant again, and she encouraged me. Through her words, I regained hope."
Not only did he decide to cook again, Chae opened his own restaurant.
He fell in love with 35 Hunter Street at first sight and knew it fit, hand in glove, with his vision of a "modern Australian restaurant with Korean influences".
It's a Saturday night when I stop by for a chat, and Chae's Newcastle East restaurant CorEat is all but full. The geometric ceiling lights cast interesting diamond-like patterns on the cream walls and add a bit of bling to the otherwise neutral decor.
The chairs are comfortable. The tables are roomy, with plenty of space for multiple plates and glasses. A rarity these days. No juggling act here.
Chae tells me he's been riding the inevitable highs and lows of owning and running a business ("Some nights are busier than others, but you get that") but wouldn't change a thing.
He is passionate about cooking for others and about keeping his menu fresh and relevant.
He wants diners to come in again and again, expecting the unexpected but confident that the high quality of his food will remain unchanged.
CorEat's menu is a nod to Chae's beloved Korean culture and changes with the seasons.
"This approach allows us to utilise the freshest locally-sourced ingredients and present dishes that truly embody the essence of each season, offering a dynamic dining experience for our guests," Chae says.
A favourite with diners is a seafood dish featuring razor clams.
"The dish is a harmonious composition of flavours and textures, featuring razor clams, scallops, prawns, kombu dashi beurre blanc, and chive oil," Chae explains.
"The razor clam, known for its delicate flavour and tender texture, takes centre stage. Its subtle brininess and natural sweetness is enhanced by the succulent scallops and prawns, creating a symphony of flavours from the sea.
"The kombu dashi beurre blanc, a classic French sauce infused with umami-rich kombu seaweed, lends a velvety richness and depth of flavour that beautifully complements the seafood medley.
"To add a touch of vibrancy, we drizzle chive oil over the dish, providing a fresh herbal note that balances the richness of the buerre blanc."
It was my favourite dish of the night. Complex but not over-complicated, and beautifully presented in its simplicity.
Chae was also excited to share with me a new pork belly dish on the set menu, inspired by a popular Korean dish called bossam and some cooking tips from his mother.
"I put a modern Australian twist on it. The pork belly is sous vide cooked in a flavourful bulgogi sauce, a traditional Korean BBQ sauce," he explains.
"It is served on a bed of crispy cabbage pancake and accompanied by refreshing radish kimchi and a delectable oyster tempura."
The beef consomme (braised beef brisket and soft radish) was a clever starter and the matcha Eton mess a fitting conclusion.
I was left recalling a comment made to me by Chae last year: "I think it is modesty and respect for cooking, not cooking skills, that increases as time passes." Indeed.
CorEat Newcastle, 35 Hunter Street, is open Wednesday and Thursday, 5.30pm to 9.30pm; Friday and Saturday, noon to 2.30pm and 5pm to 10pm; and Sunday, noon to 2.30pm.
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